Kingfisher Drift Boat Build: Installing the Decks

The two side decks and the front deck fit into the stem have been epoxied and screwed into place.

With the completion of the paint job on the interior it is finally time to permanently install the two side decks which will cover the dry storage compartments and the front deck that fits into the stem.

Installing the Deck Pieces

The three deck pieces have been previously fit and the screw holes drilled and countersunk for wood plugs. I had to do a little prep work prior to installing them.

I first sanded the interior plywood sides above the Durabak paint with 220 grit paper with my 5″ random orbital sander. I also finish sanded the gunnels inside and out with 220 grit sandpaper. Once that was done I sanded the tops of the deck frames with 80 grit sandpaper to prepare them to receive thickened epoxy to glue the tops down.

I next vacuumed up all the saw dust created doing the prep work. I then mixed up a batch of thickened epoxy to use as glue. I used 1 ounce of  fast set hardener and 2 ounces of the compatible resin. Once mixed I added wood flour to thicken the epoxy to the consistency of a normal glue. I coated the tops of the dry box frame work and then carefully placed one of the side deck tops. Once aligned with the pre-drilled screw holes I used #8 x 3/4 silicon bronze screws to attach the deck piece. I repeated the process with the opposite side and the front deck.

Epoxy Fillets

Once the decks were epoxied to the framework the next step was using epoxy peanut butter to install fillets at the joint of the decks to the interior sides.

I used 3/4″ blue masking tape and masked a line on the decks and on the sides so I had a finished fillet of about 3/8″. This is about the size of a rounded wooden tongue suppressor. Using masking tape insures a nice straight fillet and minimizes the cleanup and sanding. The key is to (a) take your time and mask straight true lines (b) mix the peanut butter to the proper consistency, it must be firm and non sagging, and (c) to let the epoxy fillet set up long enough prior to pulling the masking.

Once the masking was pulled, I let the epoxy fillet set up a bit more and then wet one of my fingers in a protective glove with acetone and swiped it down the length of the fillets. This smooths the fillet out nicely.

kingfisher-drift-boat-build-installing-the-decks-02The 3/8″ epoxy fillet is smoothed out a finger in a glove with acetone.

Once it sets up and hardens it just needs a little detail sanding by hand and then it can be flow coated with epoxy.

Swamp Thing Progress

I’ve been working on the “Swamp Thing” recently getting it ready to chase stripers later in the month. I’ve ordered a new Lowrance HD – 7 Gen 2 fish finder and rigged it up. This model has ‘GPS’ and ‘Chart Plotting’ capabilities. Here’s what it looks like mounted in place.

  • Swamp Thing ProgressI’ve also installed the Lowrance Structure Scan module that gives me side scanning ability. It is an add on with a separate unit. It’s mounted underneath the steering column. I had to run two cables to the back of the boat for the fish finder transducer and another for the Sidefinder. Here they are mounted on a transom plate.
  • Swamp Thing ProgressI had to run two cables from the units to the stern for the sonar transducer and the Structure scan. They are two separate units that came with the fish finder and Structure Scan module. I mounted them on a transom plate on the stern.
  • Swamp Thing ProgressI also mounted a Minn Kota 12 volt, 55 pound thrust bow mounted trolling motor at the bow. I manufactured a 1/4″ aluminum plate at the bow to mount it.
  • Swamp Thing ProgressI also mount oar stands to be able to row the boat if and when I want to. Here’s what one of them looks like.

So the boat is pretty much ready to go once I figure out how to operate the fish finder and structure scan anyway. Something to go and play around with. Hopefully soon.

Lefty Kreh’s Loop Knot

A LOOP KNOT is one of the most useful knots in fishing. A loop in the line allows the lure or fly to be more active during the retrieve. Anglers have used loops in monofilament and wire for decades, but most loop knots have some disadvantages. First, the tag end of most loop knots protrudes either outward or forward. This stub, even if very short, will tangle a thick tippet and often catch grass in the water, spoiling the retrieve. Second, most loop knots are not as strong as the line they are tied with and cannot be adjusted to loop size. Finally, many loop knots can be tied only in fluorocarbon or monofilament and not in braided wire.

The Non-Slip Loop overcomes most of these disadvantages. It doesn’t snag. The tag end protrudes toward the fly, lure, or hook, reducing the chance of snagging grass during the retrieve. It is strong. When tied correctly, it will test near or at full-line strength in all kinds of weights — 150-pound-test monofilament or 8X tippet. It is versatile. You can use it to make a simple loop or a loop to attach the lure, fly, or bare hook. You can build the loop to any desired size. And best of all, it is perhaps the most effective knot for tying a loop in braided wire, especially the modern multi-strand wire.

The knot may appear to be difficult to tie, but it is rather easy. You make an Overhand Knot, insert the tag end through the hook eye, bring the tag end back through the Overhand Knot, and make a number of turns with the tag end before inserting the tag end a final time through the Overhand Knot. Now let’s do it step-by-step.

Step 1: To attach a hook, lure, or fly, make an Overhand Knot in the line before you insert it through the hook eye.
Lefty_Krehs_Loop_Knot_1

Step 2: Pass the tag end back through the Overhand Knot the same way it came out of the knot.
Lefty_Krehs_Loop_Knot_2

Step 3: Large loops can cause problems, so it is best to make smaller loops. You can adjust the size of the loop as follows. After making step 2, use your thumb and forefinger to pinch together the Overhand Loop and the line passing through it. By drawing on the main line, you can then reduce the Overhand Loop. Continue pinching the two lines and pull on the tag end. This action moves the now-smaller Overhand Knot down until it touches the hook eye, further reducing the loop’s size.
Lefty_Krehs_Loop_Knot_3

Step 4: Start making turns with the tag end around the main line. It is the number of turns that determines the knot’s strength. For lines testing 8X to 6-pound-test, make seven turns; for 8- to 12-pound-test, make five turns; for 15- to 40-pound-test, four turns; and for line heavier than that, make only two turns. For thin, flexible modern multi strand plastic-coated braided wire lines, make three turns. For the older plastic-coated braided wire, two turns are enough. The key to tying a strong Non-Slip Loop is to make the required turns with the tag end around the main line before you finish the knot.
Lefty_Krehs_Loop_Knot_4

Step 5: To ensure maximum strength, pull on the main line, the tag end, and the lure or hook to firmly close the knot.
Lefty_Krehs_Loop_Knot_5

Knots: Non Slip Mono Loop

non_slip_loop_knot1If you want a good knot for tying on your favorite streamer, try the Non-slip Mono Loop.

The Non-Slip Mono Loop is one of the most versatile knots around. It is a great choice when you’re looking for a strong loop knot. Many guides from Alaska think that the Non-Slip Mono Loop, tied properly, is the strongest, most consistent loop knot around.
Here are just a few situations which this knot may come in handy here in Northern California

Attaching wet flies to leaders when swinging for steelhead
Attaching sculpin patterns to leaders when fishing for trout
Really, attaching any wet fly to a leader, as long as it’s not a tube fly or a bead
Creating strong loop knots in the butt section of a leader for a loop to loop connection
Creating loops in both ends of monofilament running line
When tying this knot, getting the wraps to cinch properly may take a couple of rounds of pulling on the tag end and sliding the loops down the line towards the knot. It can be a little finicky to tighten at first, but it’s well worth it to get good at this one!

Here’s a graphic showing how to tie it from www.NetKnots.com

 

Techniques: Tippet Rings for Leaders

climax_tippet_ringsI’ve recently started looking into fishing the Truckee River this fall. It’s only a one hour drive from home and an option that I really haven’t taken advantage of. Why? I’ve been concentrating on the Lower Yuba and the Lower Sacramento River. It’s sort of funny, I’ve been working in Truckee for the last 8 years and when I’ve gotten done working, I want to get the blank out of there. I’m done working there, so now I want to start fishing there. Go Figure. I guess I am nuts. Pass me a shot of scotch, please.

One of the things I’ve come across, getting ready, is the technique of rigging using braided line and “Tippet Rings”. From what I hear, when fishing the Truckee River, the larger browns like to hold in deeper slots amongst boulders and larger rocks. They also like to hold right on the bottom. This results in lots of lost flies and re-tying leaders and sometimes totally re-rigging.

As a remedy to constantly hanging up and changing riggs and losing flies, the local guides have come up with a rigging system to avoid these break-offs by using a modified “Czech Nymphing Rigg”.

Here is the basic formula for a Czech Nymphing Rigg

This modified Czech Leader is comprised of 3 basic components.

(1) A short length of 25 lb. or 30 lb. braided leader material. 60″ to 72″ when tight line nymphing without indicator, or, 72″ to 84″ if you are planning on using an indicator.

(2) A tippet ring tied to the business end of the braided line.

(3) Monofilament or fluorocarbon tippet down to one or two blood knots with one long tag end to tie on dropper flies.

Truckee River Nymph Rigg 2

Note: This formula is used with a very heavily weight middle fly and no split shot.

An optional rigg is to add a short 12″ piece of 2x mono and an additional tippet ring to place shot above the second tippet ring. The top two flies would then be tied off blood knots with an extended tag.

Adding Your Droppers

Tippet+RingYou can add droppers by using a blood knot and leaving one tagg long to tie on the fly or you can use additional Tippet Rings. The advantage of using the tippet rings is that you can use much heavier tippet between the rings to prevent losing your rigg.

Once you extend the tippet from the braided line you will add one or two droppers depending on whether you are fishing two or three flies.

As shown at the photo on the left, you can attach tippet material using fluorocarbon tippet using clinch knots.

So why would you use tippet rings.

(1) So you can transition from larger tippet to smaller tippet.

(2) If your fly gets hung up on the bottom, in the rocks or gets snapped off by a monster brown trout, you may only loose one fly and not your whole rig.

Using this Rigg for Bounce Nymphing

Note: Please verify if this method is legal in the waters you fish.

Is the Bounce Rigg method considered illegal in California? This is still being debated in certain circles. For years many Truckee anglers used this rig and added split shot at the very bottom of the rigg. This enables the angler to bounce the shot and flies right along the bottom as they high stick and lead the flies through the slots.
When rigging for the bounce method, the shot goes on the very end, tie a double overhead knot and place the shot directly above the knot.

The first fly above the shot is tied on a blood knot tagg about 6 to 8 inches above the shot. The second fly is tied on a blood knot tagg about 6 to 8 inches above the first. This rigg typically is tied with two flies.

Czech Leader System available online or at Local Flyshops

burks czechThe legend of Truckee, Andy Burk, has marketed his Czech Nymphing system through Umpqua, although most of the local Truckee guides tie up their own.

This is a complete ready to go system. It is a re-usable three fly leader with one tippet ring and ready to tie on tags for two droppers.

Hope this all makes sense, want to pour me another shot?

Clay

Nuts and Bolts: Rigging for Deep Indicator Nymphing

The rigging diagram below is from the “Boles Float Rite” website. This diagram is the recommended rigging by “Boles Float Rite”.

The rigg that I’ve been schooled on by fish guide, Mike Hibbard, is a little different. Lets talk in general terms and assume that you’re using a Boles, Thingamabobber or Frogs hair adjustable, pegged corkie or whatever indicator you prefer. This would be Mike’s Lower Sacramento Rigg.

Boles_Setup1. Set the indicator about 24″ +/- down from the fly line butt.

2. Start will a 9 foot or 10 foot, 2x tapered leader.

3. If you’re starting with a tapered leader that has been shortened, extend this down with 2x mono so that you can tie a double surgeons knot or a blood knot 9 ft. below where the indicator is set. This is a good time to note that if you are going from monofiliment to Fluorocarbon tippet you need to up size the mono one size, for example 2x mono to 3x fluorocarbon.

4. This is where you will place your shot. The shot goes above the knot.

5. The tag end from this knot at 9 ft. should extend at least 24″ so you can tie your 1st fly at 16″ to 18″ below the shot. Use 3x fluorocarbon.

6. Tie a 22″ piece of 4x fluorocarbon to the hook bend of the 1st fly and tie the 2nd fly 16″ to 18″ behind the 1st fly.

7. Tie a second 22″ piece of 5x fluorocarbon to the hook bend of the 2nd fly and tie a third fly 16″ to 18″ below the 2nd fly.

This rigging is based upon the 1st fly being the largest the second fly smaller and then the 3rd fly smaller still.

Note: When working with fluorocarbon and tying two pieces together, use a triple surgeon’s knot

Summary

You’re now good to go. You can then lower the indicator as required in different sections of the river or move it back up.

Thank Mike Hibbard in person at 530-526-5535. Get out on the Lower Sacramento River or the Trinity River with him. He’ll show you the ropes. He’s taught me!

Nuts & Bolts: #1 – Indicators for Deep Nymphing

There are many indicators for nymphing available on the market. I’m going to cut to the chase and give my two cents on the on-going debate of “What is the best indicator to use?” I’ll clue you into the indicators that I and some of my guide friends have used on our local rivers. As for the local rivers, I am talking about the Lower Yuba River, Feather River, Lower Sacramento River, Trinity River and the Klamath River. I’m really talking about an indicator that has to support a lot of shot and 2 or maybe three flies. This discussion is not about the pinch-on or micro indicators.

The indicators that I typically like to use and will discuss are the;
“Boles Float Rite,” the “Thingamabobber” and The Frog’s Hair indicators.

The Boles Float Rite

Boles_IndicatorThe “Boles Float Rite” Indicator is a made from polypropylene yarn with a swivel in the middle. A stiff polypro “flag” sticks out of the middle. What I like about this indicator is that the post points to where your shot and flies are. If the indicator post is pointing downstream your flies are fishing behind and are being drug downstream.

If the indicator post is pointing upstream your flies are racing up in the water column and not fishing at all. If the indicator post is pointing straight up you are fishin’. I’ve also noticed that when the Boles is fishing right it sort of sucks down into the water column slightly. This indicator is great when fishing dead drifting from a drift boat. You need to mend to attempt keep the fly line straight above the indicator and dead drifting.

The biggest complaint that I’ve heard about the Boles is that it is harder to adjust depths. The indicators come in a two pack with two rubber bands. You thread your leader through the eye of the swivel, fold the leader back onto itself and then tie a half hitch with the rubber band and then snug up the knot to the swivel. I usually cut the tags of the rubber band short once I snug it up. This is definitely awkward, but you can adjust it, just bring extra rubber bands as they sometimes come loose when you try this adjustment.

The other way to rigg the Boles up, is to tie your butt section straight to the swivel and then tie straight tippet material, 2x or 3x mono, down to your split shot knot. This work great on rivers like the Lower Sacramento where you don’t have to be changing depths allot. To change depths you have to shorten or extend the 2x or 3x tippet from the swivel to the split shot knot.

MucilinAnother point is that you need to treat the Boles with floatant and “Comb” it out before fishing it. A small mustache comb works great, I’ve even used a toothbrush. Apply the floatant and “tease” out the Poly fibers. A good trick is to use Mucilin Floatant. You can apply this the day before and it seems to keep the “Boles” floating all day long.

The Boles comes in small, medium and large sizes. I like the blue and green colors for stealth.

The “Boles Float Rite” is a good one, I like it a lot.

Thingamabobber

ThingamabobberThe Thingamabobber is a new design in strike indicators from West Water Products. Its design was inspired by western guides who use small balloons as strike indicators for their buoyancy and sensitivity.

Already a favorite among most of my friends that are guides, the Thingamabobber combines all of the best strike indicator elements in one simple design. It is buoyant, easy to cast, ultra sensitive, durable, and affordable. The Thingambobber comes in a variety of colors and 1/2″, 3/4″ and 1” diameters.

  • The Thingamabobber has all of the best strike indicator elements in one simple design.
  • Casts well in any weather condition
  • Easy to attach and adjust yet stays in place on your line
  • Never sinks and requires no floatant
  • Ultra sensitive
  • Comes in a variety of colors and sizes
  • Durable and affordable
  • Highly visible

Frog’s Hair Strike Indicators

Frog's Hair IndicatorThe Frog Hair Strike Indicators incorporate a quick and easy line threading system that allows for easy adjustments of depth on knotless leaders. As you find the need to adjust depth as you move up or down the river, you simply grab the indicator and slide it into the desired position, lets go, and continues fishing.

The Frog’s hair indicators can be purchased for re-use or 1 time usage. I personally think the one-use system is a waste and don’t understand why they even went there. For the multiple use style you insert a rubber retainer on your leader then the indicator and then a second retainer which enables you to then move the retainers up or down to the desired depth.

You can purchase additional retainers as you will have to remove the lower one if you take the indicator off. I really like this one for it’s adjustability although if you are using a tapered leader and need to adjust to real shallow depth the indicator has a hard time staying in place. This can be a problem.

Summary

This is a tough one. “Boles,” “Thingamabobber,” or the “Frog’s Hair”? I’ve been enamored for quite a while by the “Boles Float Rite,” but lately I’ve been reaching into my fish pack and picking out the thingamabobber. I was born in Montana and I guess that it just sounds right. “You betcha, I’m gonna throw on-a thing-a-ma-bobber!”

I guess right now I’m a “Thingamabobber” guy unless I’m having trouble figuring where the heck my flies are in the water column, then I’ll switch to a “Boles Float Rite”. The “Boles” also works great when your are trying to help people figure out what nymphing is all about and then you can explain to them to watch the post and determine what the flies are doing. The “Frog’s Hair” has the easiest adjustability.

So, I guess for me it’s a draw. I carry all three. It’s more of what I’m trying to accomplish in diferent situations and water types.

General Rigging for Indicators

Boles_SetupThe rigging diagram above is from the “Boles Float Rite” website. This diagram is the recommended rigging by “Boles Float Rite”.

The rigg that I’ve been schooled on by fish guide, Mike Hibbard, is a little different. Lets talk in general terms and assume that you’re using a Boles, Thingamabobber or Frogs hair adjustable, pegged corkie or whatever indicator you prefer. This would be Mike’s Lower Sacramento Rigg.

  1. Set the indicator about 24″ +/- down from the fly line butt.
  2. Start will a 9 foot or 10 foot, 2x tapered leader.
  3. If you’re starting with a tapered leader that has been shortened, extend this down with 2x mono so that you can tie a double surgeons knot or a blood knot 9 ft. below where the indicator is set. This is a good time to note that if you are going from monofiliment to Flurocarbon tippet you need to up size the mono one size, for example 2x mono to 3x fluro.
  4. This is where you will place your shot. The shot goes above the knot.
  5. The tag end from this knot at 9 ft. should extend at least 24″ so you can tie your 1st fly at 16″ to 18″ below the shot. Use 3x fluorocarbon.
  6. Tie a 22″ piece of 4x fluorocarbon to the hook bend of the 1st fly and tie the 2nd fly 16″ to 18″ behind the 1st fly.
  7. Tie a second 22″ piece of 5x fluorocarbon to the hook bend of the 2nd fly and tie a third fly 16″ to 18″ below the 2nd fly.

This rigging is based upon the 1st fly being the largest the second fly smaller and then the 3rd fly smaller still.

Note: When working with fluorocarbon and tying two pieces together, use a triple surgeon’s knot

You’re now good to go. You can then lower the indicator as required in different sections of the river or move it back up.

Thank Mike Hibbard in person at 530-526-5535. Get out on the Lower Sacramento River or the Trinity River with him. He’ll show you the ropes. He’s taught me!

Make it a tradition! – Clay

Nuts & Bolts: The Davy Knot

davyknotWant to learn something new? Want to have all your friends go how’d you do that. Well here you go, the “Davy Knot” will do the trick.

Davy Wotton, competed for many years for the Welsh national fly fishing team and in individual professional events. Through trial and error, he invented a knot that allowed him to attach a fly in seconds. He appropriately dubbed it “the Davy knot.” This knot is so easy and simple to tie, it sometimes seems difficult! Once you use this knot, you may not use another one!

The Davy knot is fast and strong. Unlike other knots that are used to attach flies, the tippet is not pulled down on the knot to burn and weaken the mono. This knot is the knot of choice in fly fishing competitions and has been known to be used without a single failure. One competitor claims that he used the “Davy Knot” and in 12 months he had only one knot break in hundreds of hours of use. Sound Good? Well here’s how you tie it.

Follow these instructions to tie the knot:

(1) Take your fly and pass your tippet through the bottom of the eyelet. Turn the fly upside down so the hook point is turned up or on the top.

(2) With the fly extended to the left, pull or extend about three or four inches of tippet through the eye.

(3) Take your tag piece of mono and pass over the top of the main leader (away from you) and draw it back through, making a loop.

(4) Take the tippet and pass it under, then over the top of the bottom leg of the loop. If you have been successful, the tag end will point directly toward you.

(5) To secure the knot, bite the tag piece and pull the leader end taut, causing the knot to close. If you have tied the Davy knot properly, the knot is firmly fastened and will not slip.

Drift Boat 101: Part Six – The Crawl Stroke

A very good rowing or oar manipulation skill is the crawl stroke. The crawl stroke is a combination of backrowing and sweeping. Sweeping is accomplished by turning the oar around facing upstream and pushing or pulling on the oar handle sideways rather that front to back as in standard backrowing. The reason learning the crawl stroke is so beneficial is that you can eliminate a high percentage of standard pivot turns, which make it much easier for the angler in the stern angler. The stern angler is the most affected by using pivot turns because the stern has to move laterally to execute the pivot.

The crawl stroke is a smooth oar stroke and minimizes the lateral movement for the stern angler, which enables the angler to keep fishing as normal while executing a turn.

How it works.

As you backrow with one hand, lefts say the left oar in this example, you turn the right oat around and face the oar blade downstream or towards the bow to get it in a position to sweep. Sweeping pushes water sideways under the boat rather than parallel to the boat like a normal backrowing stroke. The left oar stroke needs to pivot the boat to a slight ferrying angle of about 15 degrees, to the right in this case. The pivot must be made before starting the crawl stroke with the right oar. The right oar, facing downstream, is dipped into the water a few feet to the side of the boat, and then the oar handle is pushed sideways, away from the boat. This will feel unnatural at first, sort of like patting you head and rubbing your tummy.

While doing the crawl stroke the oarsman leans sideways rhythmically with each oar stroke, twisting the body somewhat rather than leaning back. This is due to the pushing out on the crawling oar that is pushing water sideways under the boat. You pull on one oar (in this case the left oar) while pushing on the other oar ( the right oar in this case).

The crawl stroke is not a rowing style or method for heavy water maneuvering or when you encounter strong cross winds. It is ideal for subtle maneuvering around rocks or making turns at river bends to avoid as many pivot turns that give the stern angler casting and line control problems.

The crawl stroke is good for grabbing eddies around boulders when you want to pull in behind it. The downstream crawl oar is pointed to grab the back swirling eddy water which helps pull the boat in behind the rock.

Another good time to use the crawl stroke is on the inside bend of a river and when you are on smaller rivers and don’t want to get swept out into the outside bend or into a cut bank. This works when the flow into a bend or turn is moderate. When making a turn in heavy currents you need to use a pivot, and use your standard backrowing stroke.

When encountering a corner that is a gradual turn you can use the crawl stroke to ease your way around it. The crawl stroke helps draw the boat into the eddy water and turn the corner. Because a boat coming down the main current is going faster than the currents is going faster than the currents in the eddy the sweeping oar has a pronounced front ruddering effect. The boat tends to go in the direction the submerged front facing sweeping oar is pointed. Continued backstrokes are necessary when pulling off this move are needed to keep the boat from spinning in a circle. As mentioned earlier in powerful rivers revert to normal pivoting and backrowing. Otherwise the crawl stroke helps steer you into eddies and around corners.

Hugging a Bank With the Crawl Stroke

The crawl stroke allows you to hug a bank closer than you can using conventional rowing strokes, This is good for side channels when you don’t have time to stop and wade fish. You can still fish the middle and far bank with stealth. The sweep oar can push water either under the boat or away from the boat as you move along. The sweep oar often scrapes bottom as it is close to the bank. make sure you don’t stick the sweeping oar in the streambed or root wads along the bank.